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| Reverb Shawl |
First off, I hate to admit how long I’ve been working on this shawl, because, to be quite honest, I can no longer even remember when I started (nevertheless, I am 98% sure it was last year). And I know that may not sound like *that* long to some of you with years-old WIPs sitting around in your drawers, but I’m one of those people who loses steam VERY EASILY the minute I set something down, and will often literally throw out a project to ease the psychic burden of staring at it, unfinished, for too long (but I swear I’ve gotten better about this as I get older!!! really, it’s true!!!). Anyway, what was my point? I have no idea, but I did make a shawl! And quite a shawl it is – made with worsted weight so it doesn’t work up too slowly, the Reverb Shawl also combines twisted stitches and mesh for some interesting textural detail. So make one of your own, if you want! I will send lots of good energy your way so you don’t get bogged down halfway through. 🙂
Update: As of April 9, 2020, I am also including instructions to make this pattern in Russian in a PDF in my Ravelry page (I tried to add them here too, but my site was very angry about mixing English and Russian). Many thanks to Galina Kostikova for the translation!!! 🙂
Yarn: Malabrigo Worsted (100% Merino Wool; 210 yards [192 meters]/100 grams); #193 Jacinto – 2 skeins
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| Another look at the pattern |
Needles: One 32″ or longer circular needle in size US 7
Notions: Tapestry needle, 2 stitch markers
Gauge: 20 stitches = 4 inches in stockinette
So let’s make a shawl! Begin by casting on 3 stitches loosely, and then
working 8 rows in garter stitch to create a tab. Then, without
turning work, yarn over (yo) twice, pick up 1 stitch about 1/3rd of the
way down along the edge of the tab, (yo) twice again, pick up 1 stitch
roughly 2/3rds of the way down the edge of the tab, and (yo) twice
again. Complete tab by picking up 3 stitches along cast-on edge; you
should now have stitches coming from 3 sides of the tab – 3 along
original working edge – 8 along the side (counting each double yo as 2
stitches), and 3 along the cast-on edge. Then, work a few set-up rows as
follows. Oh, and you’ll need the following terminology, as well:
rt
(right twist): knit two together, leaving stitches on left-hand needle;
next, insert right-hand needle from the front between the two stitches
just knitted together, and knit the first stitch again. Finally, slip
both stitches from left-hand needle together
lt (left twist): with right-hand
needle behind left-hand needle, skip one stitch and knit the second
stitch in back loop; then insert right-hand needle into the backs of
both stitches and k2tog-b (knit two together through back loops,
inserting right needle from the right)
Anyway, once you’ve got that covered, continue as follows:
Set-up Row 1 (wrong side): k3, purl until 3 stitches left in row, working a (k1, p1) in each double yo, k3
Set-up Row 2: k3, (yo) twice, knit until 3 stitches left, (yo) twice, k3 (18 stitches)
Set-up Row 3: k3, purl until 3 stitches left in row, working a (k1, p1) in each double yo, k3
Set-up Row 4: k3, (yo) twice, knit 1 stitch through back loop (k1-tbl), k1, k1-tbl, k6, k1-tbl, k1, k1-tbl, (yo) twice, k3 (22 stitches)
Set-up Row 5: k3, purl until 3 stitches left in row, working a (k1, p1) in each double yo, k3
Set-up Row 6: k3, (yo) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (26 stitches)
Set-up Row 7: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, yo, ssk, purl until you have 7 stitches left in row, yo, ssk, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Set-up Row 8: k3, (yo) twice, k2, yo, ssk, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, k1, yo, ssk, k2 (yo) twice, k3 (30 stitches)
Set-up Row 9: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, (yo, ssk) twice, p12, (yo, ssk) twice, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Set-up Row 10: k3, (yo) twice, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (34 stitches)
Set-up Row 11: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2, (yo, ssk) twice, p12, (yo, ssk) twice, p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Set-up Row 12: k3, (yo) twice, k3, k1-tbl, (yo, ssk) twice, k3, k1-tbl, k1, (k1-tbl) twice, k1, k1-tbl, k3, (yo, ssk) twice, k1-tbl, k3, (yo) twice, k3 (38 stitches)
Set-up Row 13: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p4, (yo, ssk) twice, p12, (yo, ssk) twice, p4, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Set-up Row 14: k3, (yo) twice, k4, rt, (yo, ssk) twice, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, lt, k4, (yo) twice, k3 (42 stitches)
Set-up Row 15: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, yo, ssk, p4, (yo, ssk) twice, p12, (yo, ssk) twice, p4, yo, ssk, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Set-up Row 16: k3, (yo) twice, k2, yo, ssk, k1, rt, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k1, (yo, ssk) twice, k1, lt, k1, yo, ssk, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (46 stitches)
Set-up Row 17: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, (yo, ssk) twice, p4, (yo, ssk) twice, p12, (yo, ssk) twice, p4, (yo, ssk) twice, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Notice that you’ll be placing two stitch markers in the next set-up row…
Set-up Row 18: k3, (yo) twice, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, rt, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, place marker, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice, place marker, (yo, ssk) twice, k2, lt, (yo, ssk) twice, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (52 stitches)
Set-up Row 19: k3,
(k1, p1) in double yo, p2, (yo, ssk) twice, p4, (yo, ssk) twice, slip marker, p12, slip marker, (yo,
ssk) twice, p4, (yo, ssk) twice, p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Complete set-up rows 1 – 19. At this point, we’ve established our main repeating pattern, which is a combination of faggoting and twisted stitches. So now, let’s continue as you’ll find below. As you’ll notice, we’re simply going to keep working the same pattern we’ve already established, but now it will begin repeating outside of the markers.
Row 1 (right side): k3, (yo) twice, * k1-tbl, k3, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, k1-tbl, k1, k1-tbl, k6, k1-tbl, k1, k1-tbl, and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, k3, k1-tbl; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left in row; end (yo) twice, k3 (+4 stitches)
Row 2: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk) twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 5 stitches before end of row; end (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Row 3: k3, (yo) twice, k2, * lt, k2, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, (lt) twice, k4, (rt) twice, and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, k2, rt; rep from * until you have 5 stitches left in row; end k2, (yo) twice, k3 (+4 stitches)
Row 4: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, yo, ssk, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk) twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 7 stitches before end of row; end yo, ssk, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Row 5: k3, (yo) twice, k2, yo, ssk, * k1, lt, k1, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, k1, (lt) twice, k2, (rt) twice, k1,
and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, k1, rt, k1; rep from *
until you have 7 stitches left in row; end yo, ssk, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (+4
stitches)
Row 6: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, (yo, ssk) twice, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk)
twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 9 stitches before end of row; end (yo,
ssk) twice, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Row 7: k3, (yo) twice, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, * k2, lt, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, k2, (lt) twice, (rt) twice, k2,
and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, rt, k2; rep from *
until you have 9 stitches left in row; end (yo, ssk) twice, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (+4
stitches)
Row 8: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2, (yo, ssk) twice, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk)
twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 11 stitches before end of row; end (yo,
ssk) twice, p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Row 9: k3, (yo) twice, * k3, k1-tbl, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, k3, k1-tbl,
k1, (k1-tbl) twice, k1, k1-tbl, k3, and slip second marker. Finally, *
(yo, ssk) twice, k1-tbl, k3; rep from * until you have 3 stitches left
in row; end (yo) twice, k3 (+4 stitches)
Row 10: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until
you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk) twice, p4;
rep from * until you’re 5 stitches before end of row; end (k1, p1) in
double yo, k3
Row 11: k3, (yo) twice, k2, * k2, rt, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from * until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, k2, (rt) twice, (lt) twice, k2,
and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, lt, k2; rep from *
until you have 5 stitches left in row; end k2, (yo) twice, k3 (+4
stitches)
Row 12: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, yo, ssk, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk)
twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 7 stitches before end of row; end yo,
ssk, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Row 13: k3, (yo) twice, k2, yo, ssk, * k1, rt, k1, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from
* until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, k1, (rt) twice, k2, (lt) twice, k1,
and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, k1, lt, k1; rep from *
until you have 7 stitches left in row; end yo, ssk, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (+4
stitches)
Row 14: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, (yo, ssk) twice, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk)
twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 9 stitches before end of row; end (yo,
ssk) twice, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Row 15: k3, (yo) twice, k2, (yo, ssk) twice, * rt, k2, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach first marker. Then, slip marker, (rt) twice, k4, (lt) twice,
and slip second marker. Finally, * (yo, ssk) twice, k2, lt; rep from *
until you have 9 stitches left in row; end (yo, ssk) twice, k2, (yo) twice, k3 (+4
stitches)
Row 16: k3, (k1, p1) in double yo, p2, (yo, ssk) twice, * p4, (yo, ssk) twice; rep from *
until you reach marker, slip marker, p12, slip marker, * (yo, ssk)
twice, p4; rep from * until you’re 11 stitches before end of row; end (yo,
ssk) twice, p2, (k1, p1) in double yo, k3
Knit rows 1 – 16 until you’re tired of knitting, or you’re nearly out of yarn, and, ideally, you’ve just finished either row 2 or row 10 of the pattern (if you can’t finish on one of those, just make sure you’ve finished a wrong-side row). Then, knit an edging as follows:
Edging Rows 1 & 3 (right side): k3, (yo) twice, knit until you have 3 stitches left in row, (yo) twice, k3
Edging Row 2: knit, making a (k1, p1) in each double yo
Knit edging rows 1 – 3 and bind off using a knit stitch (I know that sounds weird, but all I’m trying to say is that you’ll be knitting, not purling, your bind off even though you’re on a wrong side row). Bind off loosely, tuck in ends, and block.
